Disaster Preparedness for your Pet
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Hurricanes, tornadoes, floods, fires, blizzards…nature has its fury days from time to time, not to mention the man-made threat of international terrorism. No-one is exempt from the possibility of being personally affected by such a disaster. You can’t prevent one but you can prepare for one.
Emergency Contact Information: fill in the relevant phone numbers.
Your Veterinarian:
Local emergency vet clinic*:
Alternative Veterinarian (>30miles away):
Your local disaster ‘buddy’:
Pre-arranged evacuation site:
Local hotel/motel accepting animals:
Local boarding facility:
Alternative boarding facility (>30miles away):
Local animal shelter**:
Local Animal Control:
Local Police Department:
Local Fire Department:
Local Public Health Department:
Reporting a Lost Pet: 1-900-535-1515
Reporting a Found Pet: 1-800-755-8111
For further information about finding lost pets try www.petfinder.com or www.missingpet.net
*Local emergency vet clinic: go to link below and enter zip code www.pets911.com/services/emergency/index.php
**Local animal shelter: go to link below and enter zip code
www.pets911.comFEMA:
www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/animals.shtmHumane Society of the United States www.hsus.org/pets/animal_shelters/how_to_find_your_local_animal_shelter.html
1) Pre-emptive Planning
Vaccinations: make sure your pet is up to date with his/her vaccinations. Your veterinarian usually informs you when the annual booster is due, but this is not guaranteed to happen. Members are free to make use of Pet Doctor Online’s automatic vaccine and worming reminder system to make sure that your pet isn’t the one that slips through the net. Rabies vaccination is essential in addition to the standard multi-vaccine.
Identification: make sure your pet can be identified in the event that you are separated. A microchip or tattoo are important forms of identification but this should optimally be combined with a collar tag of some sort, as not all rescue personnel will be equipped with microchip scanners or quick access to tattoo/microchip databases. Likewise if a member of the public comes across an animal with a collar tag on they are more inclined to attempt to trace its owner. The collar tag should ideally contain a rabies tag, your home address, a phone number where you can be reached, and an out-of-state number of someone that you will be in contact with during or soon after the disaster/evacuation.
Recent photo: it is a good idea to have a recent photograph of your pet(s) in a safe place so that if the worst did happen and you were separated, you have the materials to hand to immediately make posters etc. Make a note of any distinguishing marks or features on your pet so you can provide a more accurate description.
Food: have at least a 2 weeks supply of pet food (and water) stored at all times. Store dry food in watertight containers, and if you store canned food don’t forget to store a can opener nearby! A few treats should also be stored if possible to provide them with some comfort.
Medications: always keep a back-up supply of your pets’ medications. Your veterinarian will be closed for business during a disaster so your pet has a serious medical condition, you may not be able to obtain those crucial tablets for a few weeks.
Transportability: make sure you possess a secure pet carrier for small dogs, cats, rabbits and small mammals. Use the carrier at home before disaster strikes, so your animal is used to it. Larger dogs must have a secure leash or harness. In a panic, your pet may try to escape so secure transport is essential. If your dog rides with you in your car, keep a leash in the car so your dog can be safely controlled if you have to leave your vehicle.
Identifying a pet shelter: for public health and safety reasons, most emergency shelters do not accept pets. In case disaster strikes a small area that just happens to include your home, make sure you have numbers handy of hotels and motels in your area that accept pets. In the event of a wider area being affected, or a mass evacuation, you will need to contact your local emergency management office, animal shelter or animal control office. Remember, pet shelters may only accept your pets if you can provide proof of vaccination so keep your vaccination card somewhere safe.
Start a ‘buddy’ system with a friendly neighbour: arrange to check on each others pets in the event of you not being home when disaster strikes. You will need to provide them with a key to your home. Brief your ‘buddy’ on any medications necessary, discuss mutual evacuation plans and agree to care for one another’s pets in your/their absence. Inform your veterinarian of this arrangement and have your ‘buddy’s number put in your file at the vets just in case.
Pet survival kit: consider packing a “pet survival kit” to have available if disaster strikes. The kit should be assembled in an easy to carry, waterproof container and stored in a cool, dry area. Food and medications will need to be replaced from time to time in accordance with their use-by dates. Some medications may need to be refrigerated. It is wise to keep an emergency first aid guide together with your survival kit, such as our downloadable Pet Doctor Online Pet Emergency Guide.
Suggested components of Pet Survival Kit:
2 week supply of food (dry and canned)
Can opener
Spoon
2 week supply of water in sealed plastic bottles
Food & water bowls
Secure pet carrier for each pet, labelled with your contact information
Copy of medical history, including vaccination record
List of emergency contact telephone numbers
Disaster preparedness guide
Emergency First Aid guide (see above)
Emergency First Aid kit (see below)
Flashlight
Radio
Batteries (radio, flashlight)
Medications
Instructions (notification of allergies, medications, veterinarian details)
Muzzle
Comfort items (toys, blankets, treats)
Spare collar, leash, harness
Cat litter, tray, pooper scooper
Paper towels
Trash bags for waste disposal
Maps of local area
Recent photo of each petPet First Aid Kit: Your local vet clinic may well be closed due to the disaster. In fact, if the whole region is affected you might not have access to any veterinary care for a while as relief teams will prioritise human casualties. This is when having your own pet first aid kit can keep you one step ahead.
Suggested components of Pet First Aid Kit:
Oral rehydration powder (for reconstitution with water)
Antidiarrheal tablets/liquid
Activated charcoal (in case of poisoning)
Medications specific to your pet
Routine preventative medications (e.g. heartworm, fleas, ticks)
Antiseptic scrub (Betadine, Nolvasan, Hibiscrub)
Saline solution (for rinsing wounds)
Sterile eye rinse
Antibiotic eye ointment
Antibiotic ointment for wounds
Hydrogen peroxide
Styptic powder (clotting agent)
Alcohol wipes/prep pads
Gauze pads and rolls
Latex gloves
Ice cream sticks (can be used to splint fractured bones)
Elastic bandage rolls
Cotton bandage rolls
Cotton wool
Non-adherent bandage pads
Bandaging tape
Scissors
Tweezers
Syringes
Thermometer
Towel and washcloth
Tourniquet2) During a Disaster
-Make sure all your pets are inside immediately: Some animals can foresee severe weather changes, and may be ‘spooked’ by an approaching storm, causing them to run away. The earlier you get them inside, the less likely this is to happen.
-Separate dogs and cats: though your dog and cat may be best friends, the anxiety caused by a disaster can cause them to act completely out of character. Animals that normally get along may show fear related aggression to one another.
-If you must leave your home: Take your pet with you. Often people have been told to leave their homes for a “short time”, only to be unable to return for days or weeks. Even a gas leak or minor flooding could leave your pet stranded for a considerable length of time. If you have to leave town you must take your pet with you or make appropriate arrangements for his/her care. Your pet is unlikely to survive on their own.
Make sure each pet has a secure collar and leash/harness. Take your Pet Survival Kit and Pet First Aid Kit (see above) along with your pet, in his/her secure and clearly labelled carrier. Ideally this carrier should be airline approved. For housing purposes cat carriers should be large enough to hold a small litter tray and two small dishes and still allow your cat enough room to lie down comfortably or stand to use the litter tray.
Dog kennels or collapsible cages should be large enough to hold two non-spill bowls and still allow enough room for your dog to stand and turn around.
Call your prearranged evacuation site to confirm availability of space. Make your way to your evacuation site – this might be a friend or relative, a pet-friendly hotel, a veterinary hospital, a boarding kennels or an animal shelter. In case your evacuation site does not have the space or facilities to board your pet, have a collapsible cage or carrier with living space beyond the requirements for short distance transportation, including proper bedding.
-If you must leave your pets at home alone: some useful suggestions.
• Make sure they are all clearly identified with your contact details
• Make sure they have access to the bathroom. Leave the toilet seat up, so they have a refilling supply of water
• Leave out plenty of dry food, which will not ‘go off’ quickly like wet food will
• Close curtains or blinds if severe adverse weather expected, to minimise stress
• Make sure there are high counters or areas where animals can climb to safety in case of flooding
• Don’t leave a dog with a chain link or choke collar on as it could become tangled up and trapped
• Separate your dog and cat into separate areas if possible (see earlier)
• Put a note securely on your front door when you leave indicating your pets name, what they are and where they are. This will be of great assistance to any rescue teams if the situation arose3) After a disaster
Feeding: if pets have been without food for a prolonged period of time, reintroduce food in small servings, gradually working up to full portions.
Environmental hazards: downed power lines are a danger to wandering pets. Survey the area surrounding your home to identify any contaminated water. Dangerous animals and snakes may have entered the area as a result of floodwaters to feed on the carcasses of reptiles, amphibians and small mammals that have been drowned or crushed in their burrows. They pose a threat to you and your pets.
Behavioural changes: look out for any changes in your pets behaviour in the immediate aftermath of the disaster. Post-traumatic stress may make a placid friendly pet aggressive or defensive. Familiar landmarks and scents may have been altered, causing confusion for your pet which could result in them getting lost. Therefore, dogs should be leashed and outdoor cats kept indoors for the few days after a disaster. Maintain close contact while they re-adjust to their ‘new’ surroundings.
Lost pets: check animal shelters daily for lost pets. Notify neighbours and all local veterinarians. Immediately place lost animal notices at eye level in your surrounding area, containing a recent good quality photograph. Check and post details on websites (see Emergency Contact Information, above).
4) Other Types of Pets
-Small mammals (rabbits, ferrets, hamsters, gerbils, rats, mice, guinea pigs): evacuate as per a cat, using a secure, covered carrier or cage to reduce stress. Remember to bring appropriate food, bedding materials and exercise equipment.
-Birds: evacuate using a small and secure covered carrier. Transfer your bird(s) to a standard cage on arrival at your prearranged evacuation site. Covering the cage with a sheet or towel may reduce stress. Birds should be kept in a quiet area, and given fresh food and water daily. Suggested additions to the evacuation kit are as follows; necessary dietary supplements, a plant mister for hot weather, a hot water bottle for warming birds in cold weather, a perch, paper towels to line the cage and toys.
-Amphibians: these must be transported using water-tight plastic bags (as used for transporting fish) or plastic containers with snap-on lids. Place small ventilation holes in the upper wall or plastic lid. If making holes in plastic ensure there are no bits of sharp plastic jutting out that may cause injury to the amphibian’s fragile skin. If possible, keep to one animal per container.
If the amphibian is terrestrial or semi-aquatic, use just a small amount of water, moss or soaked cotton wool. If totally aquatic, fill the bag/container with de-chlorinated water (preferably the water the animal was living in to minimize stress).
Monitoring of water & air temperature, humidity and lighting will be necessary while the amphibian is at the rescue centre. The enclosure should be quiet and away from vibrations.
-Reptiles: if small, evacuation can be accomplished using a pillowcase inside a secure transport carrier. Transfer on arrival to a secure cage at the evacuation site. Suggested additions to the evacuation kit; any necessary dietary supplements, water bowl for soaking, spray bottle for misting, heating pad, battery operated lamp, batteries and handling gloves if necessary.
5) Helping wildlife
-Do not approach wild animals that have taken refuge in your home: racoons, opossums and snakes often seek refuge from floodwaters in people’s homes, and have been known to remain there once waters recede. If you find yourself in this situation, open doors and windows to encourage the unwanted visitor to leave. Provided with an escape route, the animal will probably leave of its own accord. Should it stay, call your local animal control office or wildlife rescue service.
-Do not corner wild animals outside or try and rescue them: call your local animal control office. If stranded on an island after flooding, which has suitable shelter, you can leave appropriate food for the species. Approaching a wild animal may scare it into jumping into floodwater to escape, thus endangering it.
-Do not try and move a dead animal: animal carcasses can present a serious public health risk. Contact your local emergency management office or health department for instructions.
-If bitten by an animal: seek immediate medical attention. Rabies is transmitted this way and can be fatal if the antidote is not administered quickly enough.
© Televets 2007
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