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Guinea Pig Foot Injury

Rating: 9
Velma
Velma

My guinea pig Velma is nursing her front left foot. She can't seem to put any weight on it at all. She has not been dropped or injured to my knowledge. She does have a piece of like dead skin or callus hanging off her foot pad. Her toes have always been really gnarly and her nails curly. I've always kept them cut fairly short because of this. She is very fat and is having a lot of trouble moving around on 3 feet. My local vetrinarian does not know a lot about guinea pigs, so I'm hoping that you can help me please.

Attached image (click to zoom): Guinea Pig Foot Injury

Three Response(s) to “Guinea Pig Foot Injury”:

  •   cathy crosby says:

    April 06th, 2009 at 12:48 PM

    Hi- Wow, those are some gnarly nails alright! From the look of them (although the picture is sort of blurry) they could be cut even shorter. In any case that isn't likely to be the reason she can't bear much weight on her foot.

     

    Sometimes they get a horny-type thing that grows off the side of the foot. It is usually on the outside edge and is some sort of spur that can be clipped off with nail clippers. I don't see that on her, and again, it wouldn't keep her from bearing weight.

    Guinea pigs sometimes get an infection called bumblefoot, (ulcerative pododermatitis) usually in a front foot. The picture below is what it can look like. That is a particularly bad case of it. It is pretty hard to get rid of but it can be done. It is usually caused by an injury where the skin is broken and germs get in and make a swelling. If this is the case you can try treating it by soaking the foot in warm (not hot) water/ betadine (you can get it at a pharmacy or evenWalmart) solution, 2-4 times a day. Keeping it clean and dry is very important. Some people wrap the foot with vet tape but the pigs don't usually like it and take it off quickly so it seems like a waste to me. It is better to keep the cage very clean while waiting for it to heal. If this is bumblefoot, it will take 2-3 weeks to heal completely. Keep up the soaks until the wound closes and then you can discontinue them. Make sure there is no infection under the scab though, or it will continue to grow and find a new way out. Do keep the cage scrupulously clean until it is better. You should likely clean it daily or every two days at minimum. If you don't see improvement within a week or so, you might have to take him to a vet for antibiotics or other treatment, but I'm with you, it is often traumatic for these little guys to go to the vet.  If you can treat him at home I'm sure he would appreciate it.

     

    There is also a topical medication that some people swear by but I've never tried called Blu Kote. I think it is a medication commonly used for wounds in horses.

     

    If it is a true injury ie. something is broken, she will heal over time on her own and probably be fine. Once the foot heals you should probably work on getting her some more exercise to get her weight down because being overweight will reduce her life span significantly. Make sure she gets play time on the floor or untreated grass at least 3 times a week. You can put her water and food at opposite ends of the cage to make her work a bit more for it. If her cage is large enough, try putting a board or brick in there for her to climb up on. If she has to climb over it to get to her food and water that's even better. good luck with her. I hope she feels better soon.

    Attached image (click to zoom): Guinea Pig Foot Injury
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    cathy crosby
  •   Andrea Selner says:

    April 06th, 2009 at 10:06 PM

    I agree totally with Cathy's answer. I would also suggest good bedding and stay away from pine, and cedar types.  Shreded newspaper or something similar is best.  Good luck. andrea

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  •   cathy crosby says:

    April 07th, 2009 at 11:22 AM

    Excellent suggestion Andrea. The aromatic oils in pine and cedar smell good to us but can cause lung problems and other irritation in guinea pigs.Of the beddings available, CareFresh brand, Yesterdays News and similar products are good. If you can't find them or can't afford them and must use a wood product, kiln dried aspen or pine is probably about the best actual wood product.   I personally use wood stove pellets. They are 100% wood (red oak) and are untreated. They are a bit harder on the feet though, so with the problem you are having I'd steer clear of them until she is better. The positives are that they are less likely to get kicked out of the cage making it easier to keep clean around the outside, they are very absorbant, and inexpensive to use. Some peope don't like the smell but I don't mind. They come in 40# bags and you just put a single layer of pellets in the cage. When they get wet they expand and turn into sawdust. They are also VERY economical. One 40# bag should last months for a single animal.

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    cathy crosby

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